After building the coop in 2016 and dealing with birds flying out, wet birds, extremely muddy and slippery under foot and filth eggs, I’ve decided my coop needed a roof over the run. Too keep everyone in. To keep predators out. To keep the run less muddy and to provide more shade in the heat of the summer. So, before the first snowfall, I wanted the roof on. We ran another row of hardware cloth up to the bottom frame (that fixed poor Nita) Even though it was boarded in and the water leaked in around it, it helped a great deal with keep the snow out, so they chickens were still able to get outside, and I had less shovelling to do.
Hardware cloth up
Didn’t stop this one. But don’t worry, we’ll fix her
Trim the boards off before shingling the roof.
Adding some paint
Finally boarding in ends
One side all done!
Everything is now finished. I’m just restaining the rest of the coop and touching up the trim paint. I wish I would have done this sooner!!
I know we’ve touched on some grooming aspects like brushing during moults and nail clipping, but I just wanted to get into it a bit further. First off, here’s a list of what you should keep on hand:
The first brush pictured is a decent brush. It works for regular brushings, which it wouldn’t hurt if you did once a week. This will decrease the chances of wool block, which can be deadly. Rabbits cannot pass fur balls like cats can.
The second picture is a small clipper. This one is battery operated and found in the pet aisle.
The last picture is a pair of scissors. And pair of toenail clippers (cat nail clippers can also work) And a deshedding tool, which is now my go-to brush. These come in different sizes. Pick the one that suits your rabbits fur length. (Don’t use a brush on rex rabbits)
It’s best to put your rabbit on a grooming schedule so you don’t miss anything. For example, if you clean out your rabbits cage once a week, give him a quick brushing and check the length of his nails before you put him back in the cage.
When they moult, you will need to brush as much of the loose fur out as possible, every day, until they are finished the moult. This may happen once or twice a year. They could moult very lightly, or very heavily. Look for my post on Moulting.
For rabbits with rex fur, you will want to use a damp cloth and your fingers to remove loose fur.
Sometimes you may need to take some extra steps to clean up your bun.
If your white rabbit has some urine stains on it, you can make a paste with lemon juice and baking soda. Rub it in and when it dries, brush it out.
But what if your bun has a dirty bum?
This here is one of the cutest buns, ever. But he’s always got a dirty bum. (I figured out it was the food that didn’t agree with him, and is now on a good that does agree with him) But a lot of time, he would get soft poops and they would get stuck on his bottom. If the poop or mud is dry or just on the ends of the hair, you could try to brush it out. If it doesn’t, you can very carefully cut it off.
If the mess is dry, you may be able to use the small clipper to trim the fur away from the bum and tail. This is much safer than trying to use the scissors to cut it away. This may take time, but your rabbit will be much happier.
If the mess is wet, you may have to give him a butt bath. Fill a basin with lukewarm water. Let the rabbit soak his bum in it for several minutes. (You can add Epsom salts to this, if you choose) Wearing rubber gloves, use some baby shampoo to wash to mess off them. You may have to soak him a couple times. When clean, you can dump the basin water down the toilet, and make sure your rabbit is dry, especially if they are living outside. And since you’ve got him wrapped up in a towel, you may as well clip those nails!
Don’t ever bathe a rabbit unless it is absolutely necessary, and only bathe what is dirty.
It's fairly simple. Don't be nervous. Save yourself some time and money by clipping you bun buns claws by yourself!
Here's what you need:
-Clippers I use human toenail clippers, but you can use cat clippers or small dog clippers.
-Quikstop powder or cornstarch and papertowel or cotton swab, something to help stop bleeding in case you nick the quick
-a bunny (or several)
And now you're ready to go! If your rabbit has light coloured nails, this is going to be easier for you, as you'll be able to see where the quick is. Hold your rabbit in your lap, facing outwards, on his/her bum, with their front legs over your arm. I'm right handed so I put the rabbit over my left arm.
Grab whichever foot you feel comfortable starting with, hold it firmly and then clip the end of the nail off. With clear nails, you'll be able to see where to cut. With dark nails, as long a you keep them on a regular schedule, you should just be able to clip the end off. If your rabbit isn't used to being handled much, and seems stressed out, do a paw or two and then come back the next day to finish. No need traumatize them. You don't want this to be something they dread.
If you let the nails get overgrown, the quick will also grow, similar to a dog's. So it's best to keep them on a regular schedule. Every 3 weeks is a good time frame.
If you do happen to cut the quick, use Quikstop or whatever you have, to stop the bleeding. Once you have the bleeding stopped, put the rabbit back in it's cage. That way, you both have time to calm down.
It's quite simple, and doesn't take much time to do, especially once you get the hang of it. Stay calm, and you'll have it done in no time!
*Warning - pictures and topic may be graphic.
I’ve been having a not-so-great time with my rabbits lately. I haven’t sold a rabbit since October, my funds are getting low. I need some new trays for my cages and I need the room to continue to breed so I can keep working towards the SOP (Standard of Perfection) I finally have two cages free, which is hardly enough, but I can’t keep waiting. So I bred two first-timers. Sisters. Yara and Yoshi. I really should have bred a veteran doe, too. Then, if one of the new moms didn’t care for her babies, I’d have someone to foster to. Well, after months of trying, Yara finally got pregnant. I have a new job with weekends off, so I’ve been breeding them on Saturdays and then again on Sundays, so hopefully they would also give birth in the weekend and I can be there. Well her due date came and went and then Tuesday night I noticed she decided to build a nest. Wednesday there was nothing in it. Thursday morning I noticed she seemed off. I picked her up and there was a kit hanging out of her, breach. All I could see was the back feet and up to where the umbilical cord attaches. The kit is already dead, it's not moving, it was dry and the skin was purple. Yara didn't seem to be contracting anymore, so I don't know how long she'd been like this. I tried to pull on the baby a little bit and nothing happened, so I grabbed her and brought her into the house. I grabbed a couple towels, olive oil, vaseline, and a basin.
I filled the basin with warm water and sat her bum in it. My hopes were that it would relax her and it would be easier to pull the baby out. After letting her sit for a few minutes, I put her in the towel on her back with her back feet facing away from me. I grabbed the baby and pulled it up towards her head. I tried to get some vaseline around her vent area, but that didn't seem to be helping, so I used olive oil. Really wished I would have had baby oil on hand at this point. I got more of the baby out, and then I gave her a rest. I could tell she was tired.
After a short break, I sat her in warm water again, then used some more oil and pulled again. It took a couple good pulls until I had everything out but the head. I used more oil and stuck my finger up along the neck. At this point, the baby was stretched out from me pulling on it, but I could only feel the neck inside and not the head. I got scared that I would literally rip the head off the kit. If that were to happen, Yara could suffer from a serious infection. If I did't get it out, she could die. I panicked and went to work, hoping that maybe she could pass the kit on her own after some rest.
I ended up leaving work and driving back home to see if I could help her. She was no further along than she was earlier. I grabbed a new batch of warm water and some more towels. And I enlisted some moral support.
After explaining my situation, I was told, "Get a good grip, and pull!" Saying I was concerned about ripping the head off, I was told "you may feel the skin rip, and it's something you won't forget, but you need to pull".
So I gave a a soak, then wrapped her up in a towel and laid her on her back, used some oil, and gave her a little pep talk. I told her she would have to help me out and then it would be over. I got a good grip, and gave a strong, steady pull. She grunted and seemed to push and out came the baby! I was so relieved! The poor thing had it's tongue hanging out the side of it's mouth, it suffocated in the birth canal. I dried her off and put her back in her cage to rest. My only hope was that if there were more kits, that she could pass them on her own.
A typical birth (kindling) takes about 10 minutes for the entire litter. If there is a stuck it, it's usually the first one, and usually the ones to follow are already dead. By the time I got home, she had passed a placenta and nothing more. She seems back to her usual self.
My husband has always been a white egg eater. Myself, I grew up on brown. We were always under the impression that brown eggs were better for you. More nutritious. And you could tell by the darker yolk. Was any of this true? Nope. When I first started with chickens, I chose by breed, not by egg colour, but, all of my birds laid brown eggs of different shades, save for one easter egger that laid greed eggs. And guess what? They all taste the same! People were weary of me putting the green egg in the carton when I sold them. But I'm not one to pick through my eggs for people. I've got plenty of customers to sell to. I promised them that once they cracked the egg open, they wouldn't be able to tell them apart.
Here are 3 eggs. One white, one brown, one green. Inside, they're all the same.
When it comes to farm-fresh eggs, all the birds are fed the same feed, thus, all the eggs taste the same, no matter the colour on the outside. If you chose to separate your birds into separate pens and feed them differently, then, the eggs would taste differently and the yolks may differ in colour.
Inside, most eggs are white. Which means that's the colour they start out as. The pigment is added to the outsider later.
The breed of the hen will determine the size and colour on the outside, what they eat will determine the inside!
This year I actually got several white egg layers to prove to my husband they're all the same, but he's still not convinced. And maybe you won't be either. Maybe telling you that brown eggs actually start out white and the colour is added later, will help? So brown eggs stay in a little bit longer to add the pigment. Which is why you may see white eggs cost less in the grocery stores. And if you look inside of an eggshell after it's cracked, you'll notice they're all white inside? (Save for some coloured eggs, which are the same colour both inside and out, but this still does not effect taste or yolk colour)
Which one is which? You can't tell!
I know everyone has preferences, mine my only preference is that they're fresh! (And preferably my own!)
It’s been hot. Like, super hot. Hard to believe a month ago we had heavy frost that killed many crops.
Whether you’ve read it here before, or this is your first visit, I will tell you, rabbits do excellent in the cold. Not so well in the heat. Rabbits can tolerate so much, but when the temperature soar, they need some assistance. Rabbits can get heatstroke very easily.
If a rabbit is hot, you will generally see them stretched out, breathing heavily.
Rabbits dissipate most of their heat through their ears. Some also escapes through the mouth, which is why you may see dampness on your buns mouth.
This girl is hot. If this were a video, you would see her breathing heavily. She was laying flat on her side before I opened her cage door.
1. First things first. Make sure your rabbit has some where to get out of direct sun. Air movement helps. A fan for air circulation. Wire bottom cages are great for air circulation.
2. Water. Make sure there is plenty of water available. When it's extremely hot, they may not drink much, but there has to be plenty available. And if it's cool water, they'll be more inclined to drink it. Change it out frequently, if possible. If you can't, try adding ice cubes to it. They won't last long, but it will help a bit.
3. Give them something cold. Ceramic tiles in the freezer and/or frozen bottles of water. The rabbits can use these to lay on or against. Even if they don't, there will still be some coolness coming from them that will help. Some rabbits enjoy pushing the bottles around. Make sure you remove the label from bottles, or they will do it for you.
4. I gave my rabbits (those in wire bottom cages) ice cubes. They really seemed to enjoy playing with them and licking them.
5. Wet their ears. With your hand or a light mist sprayer, wet your rabbits' ears with cool water. Don't soak, just get them damp. Be careful not to get any in their ear canal. This helps dissipate heat from their bodies.
6. If a rabbit is limp or listless, it may already be too late. Get them to the vet, ASAP.
Also, something to keep in mind: Lots of people bring their outdoor rabbits in for the winter. I assure you, you're rabbit will be fine in the winter, and may even enjoy it. I know mine love snow. So, it gets cold and them you bring your rabbit into your nice, warm house. And then it dies. This is probably due to heatstroke. Going from cold to warm, the rabbit has no chance to acclimate itself, thus suffering from heatstroke. If, you feel you must bring them it, do it before the temperatures drop significantly, and before you start cranking up the heat in your home. A basement or garage is also a good choice.
So, you’ve got a broody hen. What do you do with her? Firstly, she’s not just going to “get over it”. She’s going to continue sitting even though her eggs might not be fertilized, even though you continually remove the eggs, even though you keep removing her from the nest. So you need to decide if you want her hatching eggs or not.
Do you want chicks? If the answer is yes, proceed.
Do you have some place quiet you can house your hen and her newly hatched chicks? Hens that are going to hatch chicks should be separated from the flock. A broody hen that is sitting in a nest that others may use can be chased away by other hens. Eggs can be damaged, and the nest can be added to by other hens. And sometimes the hen will move to another nest on her own. She should be allowed to sit on her eggs without being disturbed and without threat of her chicks being injured. Also, keep in mind that moving her to certain areas may break her and she may no longer sit.
Do you have a rooster or plan on buying hatching eggs? Either will do! But if she’s not a hen that has hatched eggs before, please don’t spend a lot of money on hatching eggs she may not sit on without a backup plan, ie., an incubator.
Is it the right time of year? You really don’t want a hen sitting on eggs in the heat of the summer or in the dead of winter.
This is Abra, she’s never hatched eggs for me, but has adopted many chicks for me over the last 2 years. She’s a Wyandotte
So you’ve decided to go ahead and let her hatch, so where do you start?
Let me start by saying, you can’t make a hen go broody. You just have to wait. And some breeds go broody more often than others, some not at all.
A hen should have a nice quiet place to hatch eggs. I have a hen that will sit anywhere you give her a nest, another needs to be in my smaller coop in an actual nest box, but will break immediately after putting her in a rabbit pen.
Chicken eggs take 21 days to hatch. Some hens will lay a clutch of eggs herself, and sometimes they steal other hens eggs to sit on. I give mine the eggs I want to hatch. Make sure there’s plenty of bedding for the eggs, so none get accidentally broken. Also, make sure you don’t give more eggs than they can cover with their bodies. Keep in mind that chicks grow very fast and she will need to be able to fit them all under her for several weeks.
Keep an eye on your hen. She should leave the nest at least once a day to eat, drink and use the bathroom. Make sure you see feces somewhere, occasionally. If you don’t, you may want to chase her off the nest. I had one hen that was so dedicated to hatching, that she was actually soiling the eggs. This is not healthy for the eggs, you want them to be as clean as possible. Note* Do not wash hatching eggs. You will wash the protective coating off, called bloom. This allows bacteria to penetrate the eggs and possibly kill the chicks developing inside. Also, a hen that is not leaving the nest, is not eating or drinking, which can lead to her dying. I must tell you that broody hen poop is large and incredibly smelly. Don’t be alarmed.
A Marans hen with her single hatchling.
Cheeck the eggs when she leaves the nest. Remove any that may be broken, and replace the nesting material. After about 10 days, you should candle the eggs with a bright flashlight or candler. This is easier to do in lighter coloured eggs. In eggs that have a developing embryo will have a dark spot in it and veins coming from it. If the egg appears clear, toss it. There’s no point in letting her sit on eggs that won’t hatch. Plus they could explode, contaminating the good eggs.
A Marans hen camouflaging herself with shavings.
The last couple days, she may not leave the nest. Do not force her. She will leave the nest and call her chicks with her when she feels they are ready for their first feeding. She will show them the feeder and waterer and how to scratch in the ground and dust bathe and maybe even roost. Make sure the feeder has low enough sides that all chicks can reach and that it has chick starter feed in it. The waterer should also be low enough that they an drink from in, but not run through it or drown in it. Depending on the type of feeder and waterer you have, you may need to clean the shavings out a few times a day.
Medicated feed or non medicated feed?
I feed medicated. Medicated feed does NOT contain antibiotics. It contain amprolium, which is a coccidiostat. It helps build up the chicks’ immunity to coccidiosis. Coccidiosis can kill a chick very quickly. So, the choice is yours.
Every hen is different. Some will keep their chicks with them for months, some will want nothing more to do with them after several weeks, some will kill chicks as they hatch. Some hens will even sit on eggs for a couple weeks and decide they are done right before they hatch. And even if a hen had done well for you before, doesn’t mean they always will. There’s always a risk.
Abra’s sister. She hatched a few chicks after soiling the nest constantly. Thankfully, these guys came out healthy. Here she is showing them to the feeder.
Ive seen people say, oh you’ve got a broody! Let her hatch eggs! And others that have said they feel bad about breaking them up because it’s natures way! I’ll just keep taking the eggs from her! I’ll just keep letting her sit there! Why on earth would you think that’s okay? She’s not just going to stop being broody on her own. And if you’re not prepared for chicks, don’t let her hatch them. Broody hens don’t eat or drink much. They can die. They can become malnourished and dehydrated. If it’s too hot, they have heat stroke. If it’s too cold, they can freeze. Chickens need to eat to generate heat. Break her up!
A Marans hen in a rabbit pen with chicks she hatched out.
To break up a broody, put her in something that is uncomfortable. I use a dog crate for most of my hens. Give them food and water and a roost. Take them away from the coop, preferable where they can’t see it. The sooner you catch them, the easier it should be to break them. I’ve also put hens in a rabbit pen on bare floor overnight and that usually seems else work. One hen I had to put her in a box and drive her out to my parents place for her to be broken.
In all, hatching with a hen is easy, you just need to give her what she needs and monitor her a bit. It sure is fun to watch a hen teach her babies what they need to know.
There are so many people out there that believe rabbits should be kept in pairs. This is simply not true. Rabbits are very territorial animals and can actually kill each other. And it doesn't matter if they're from the same litter, I've had three sisters try to kill each other. When I rehomed the meanest one, the next in line decided to take over. It wasn't a good situation. I've only ever had one pair of rabbits live together, and even then, there was the occasional fur flying moments as "the boss" continued to establish their dominance over the other.
If you feel the need to have more than one rabbit, there are ways to help your bunnies bond, but be aware, if things go south, you must be prepared to house them separately, for the safety and well-being of all parties involved.
Mom and babies. The babies will be weaned from Mom at 7 weeks, and then a week later will be separated from each other.
If you already have a rabbit, how is it housed? If you're rabbit lives in a cage, you'll want to buy a second cage for your second rabbit. If your rabbit has the run of the house, you'll still want a cage for the new rabbit. If you are buying two rabbits at the same time, you'll need to buy two cages. So, what am I saying? You need a cage for each rabbit!
The first thing you want to do is house the rabbits near each other so they can see each other, and smell each other. You can gradually move the cages closer to each other until they are touching. Leave them next to each other for at least 2 weeks. If you have a rabbit that has the run of the house and you are adding a second rabbit, you may want to put that rabbit in it's cage for a few days with the new one close by before letting your rabbit run up to the cage of the new rabbit, as they may try fighting through the cage. You'll want to monitor them.
Sisters. Another was removed earlier because she was fighting with her 5 siblings.
After having your rabbits next to each other for a few weeks, you can start having short, supervised playtimes together. If a fight starts, separate them immediately and put them back in their respective cages. If things are going well, you can gradually lengthen their supervised playtimes.
Even we’ll bonded rabbits can fight occasionally. It’s usually a dominance thing. One rabbit is usually more dominant than the other, and will remind the more submissive one on occasion. When housing multiple bonded rabbits together, make sure the space is large enough they won’t feel overly territorial and they can have their own space. Houses or huts are a good idea. I found that rabbits that were housed next to each other, but not together, did the best. Usually male/female pairs. For obvious reasons, you will not want to house a unaltered male/female pair together. Males can spray when in the presence of a female, altering the male may not stop this behaviour.
Although bonded bunnies are adorable together, you do not need a friend for your rabbit. Rabbits are completely fine on their own, and honestly, they’re not alone, they have you.
*Side note: Keep in mind that when a bonded bunny loses a friend, they can become depressed and stop eating, which will also lead to their death. You will need to spend extra time and attention on them to make sure they are doing okay. If you decide to get them a friend, you will need to start this bonding process all over again.
A few babies enjoying their first snow.
I show rabbits. If you’ve been with me, you’ll already know this. I’ve not been to many, but I’ve made some connections over the years and it’s fun to see everyone. I also like to try and support the club, and of course try to win in my class.
First, I want to tell you how our shows work (and I assume other shows, but I’ve only been to ours). Our rabbit club is called the Maritime Rabbit Breeders Association, or MRBA. We follow the rules and regulations put in place by the American Rabbit Breeders Association, or ARBA. The purpose most of us breeders is to come as close the Standard as possible. We follow the ARBAs Standard of Perfection. Every breed has an outline or Standard, of exactly what the breed is supposed to look like. So essentially, we want to make the perfect rabbit for our breed. This includes making sure they healthy and in the best condition possible. And then we show them. If our breed is sanctioned, we can gain points. We want to win Best in Breed. And then we want Best in Show. Me? I’m not there yet. But I’m working hard on it.
There are several breeds of rabbits. 49, to be exact. Unfortunately, we don’t have nearly as many breeds here in the Maritimes. Each breed is then broken down into groups, then varieties. Then again into age classes. For example, I breed Blue eyed white Netherland Dwarf. They’ll call out that they will be judging Netherland Dwarf. The group is Self, which includes Black, Blue, Chocolate, Red eyed white and Blue eyed white. When they get to my variety, blue eyed white, I’ve got to be ready. They will then call out the age classes. For smaller breeds, there are 4. Sr buck, Sr doe, Jr buck, Jr doe. Seniors are any that are over 6 months of age, juniors must be at least 8 weeks old and must meet minimum weight, which is 1lb for Netherlands. Does are female, and bucks are male.
This is at a show a few years ago. These are judging coops. You put your rabbit in the front, and the judge takes them out the back to examine them, then they are put back in the coop. Here the judge has the Blue Eyed White Netherland Dwarf Sr bucks ready to go for judging.
When they find the best blue eyed white Sr buck Netherland Dwarf, they will sit him aside. Then they will choose the best Sr doe, and so on. After they have chosen the best four of that colour variety, they choose the best out of them. This rabbit become Best of Variety, or BOV. If this rabbit happens to be a buck, or them the best doe will be chosen. This rabbit becomes Best Opposite Sex of Variety, or BOSV, and vice versa. The BOV is then set aside until the group is finished. The best out of those is then called Best of Group, BOG, and Best Opposite Sex of Group, BOSG respectively. If the show is small, this part may be skipped. BOG is then set aside and will be judged for Best of Breed, BOB. Again, if this is a doe, the best buck will be picked and considered Best Opposite Sex of Breed, BOSB. BOB then goes on to compete against all the other Best of Breeds, for Best In Show, BIS.
This is one of my boys at the exhibition. They close the barn to do the judging and you don't find out how you did until the reopen the barn to the public.
Getting ready: My first show was scary. I didn’t know anyone. I didn’t know what to expect. I was alone. I found the building, parked my car, grabbed my rabbit and went in. Yup, I drove 2 hours with one rabbit (that I bought). I can’t remember if I even had a rabbit carrier, but I’m thinking I must have. I walked in and they took him to check him over to make sure he was healthy. No sick animals allowed. I stood in line and paid my fee, as I had already presentered him. Then I found a seat at an empty table at the back. Which just happened to be right in front of the canteen. My mentor, brought a rabbit for me. He came to sit with me for a bit, looked at the rabbit I brought (which I also bought from him) and I paid him for my new girl. I watched other breeds being judged, as Netherlands were pretty far down on the list, and then grabbed a bite to eat at lunch. I took my boy out and sat him on the table and gave him a good brushing. I finally got to take him up and put him in one of the holes. He was judged, and did not place, so I put him back in his cage and I went home.
Now I know more people, and I have someone that doesn’t mind going with me, so it’s a bit more enjoyable. And I probably pack too much stuff. Towels, brush, clippers, water, hay, carriers. I make sure there’s water for me and water for the rabbits.
This is Apollo, my Mini Rex, in his cage. This is where he lives. Mini Rex have thinner fur on their feet, so he has a resting mat in his cage, which he obviously doesn't feel he needs to use.
Now I need to address what people see when they’re not familiar with rabbit showing. Or with farming aspects. Contrary to what most believe, rabbits are actually livestock, much like cattle or chickens. I know, you’re see these cute, furry little creatures, and you want to bring it home and put it in a cage in your living room and cuddle it at night. Well, you can. But that’s not what they were originally meant for. Rabbits, before being cute little house animals, were raised for food and fur. Rabbit meat is actually one of the best meats you can eat. Very lean and high in protein. And the pelts make lovely mittens. Like a chicken, it served a purpose. And for many, they still serve that purpose. So, like other livestock, they don’t usually live in the house. And, like other livestock (or even your dog), they must be transported as safely as possible.
This is Chester, and we are at a show. He is in a carrier in this picture. This is how he is transported and this is where he stays until they are ready to judge him. He does NOT live in this.
I usually take a couple young rabbits to our local fair. And on the Facebook page, I’ve seen comments of what horrible conditions the rabbits and chickens are kept in there. (They’re in the same building) My little rabbits live in 24x24 cages. This is bigger than required for their breed. This is also the size of the cages that are kindly donated for the rabbits at this fair. And there is someone there that donates their time to make sure all these animals have food and water at all times. This building is hot and it’s held in the dead of summer, so it’s understandably hot in there. And sometimes water gets spilled. That’s life. It will get refilled as soon as the caretaker realizes it. She may have been in the bathroom. Or maybe grabbing a bite to eat. I can assure you, I’m not sitting in my rabbit building all day long to watch my animals. The animals at this fair get their cages cleaned out every morning before the barn opens. They get fresh hay. They get food all day long. Do you know why? It’s so people don’t complain about how the animals are starving. When they’re home they only get a measured amount in the morning. Do you know why? Because they’d be fat. And fat rabbits are unhealthy rabbits. Also, you will see large rabbits in slightly larger cages. Please don’t think this is the way they live. At home in the barn they live in, I can assure your their space is much bigger. The people go above and beyond to care for these animals, please do not complain.
These are rabbits on display at the South Shore Exhibition. These rabbits are well taken care of while they are here, but these larger rabbits you see here live in much larger cages at home. This is only temporary housing for the duration of the exhibition. And we thank those who care for out animals while they are here.
We’ve had a tussle in the rooster world. It’s not been the first time, and it will certainly not be the last. A pecking order is just what it sounds like. There’s one at the top, there’s some at the bottom, there’s a bunch on the middle. There’s an order to it. You’ll see it in your flock. It happens with hens. It happens with roosters. But I have less roosters than I do hens so it’s more apparent with them. My top guy is my Barred Rock. He’s the oldest. He was here longer. He’s the boss. If another rooster is mating with one of his hens, he’ll run over and give a quick peck on the back of the head, the other rooster walks away. Or if they see him, they may just turn and walk away. Next is the Buff Orpington. He was second to arrive. He was hatched here. He knows not to mess with the Barred Rock. (He also got put in his place by my now deceased Black Copper Marans rooster and is now missing an eye) Of he sees the frizzle mating a hen he will run over and kick him with both feet. And if he chases a hen, the BO is running right behind him. The frizzle is still not excepted by most of the hens. He’s pretty low in the pecking order. The Marans cockerel is just starting to figure out he’s a man. He goes after the hens and they want no part of him. There is usually lots of screaming involved. The frizzle isn’t sure what to do but just a glance from one of the others and he turns tail and runs. Now on Saturday the frizzle decided to test his place in the pecking order. I came home to a very bloody Barred Rock rooster. I took him in the house and gave him some scrambled eggs. Put some eye drops in his swollen eyes and tries to clean the blood off his comb and spray it with disinfectant. Then I took him back out. Sunday I let the birds free range. I had to put the BR in the garden with a couple of his girls. Sunday night my boy couldn’t get on the roost by himself. And i had to reopen one eye. The frizzle just kept attacking him. He jumped over a hen on the roost to get to him. Monday I let them freerange again, thinking the space would help. I heard a commotion and found a bloody BR hiding in behind the coop. I had enough.
I cleaned out the little coop in the back. And grabbed the frizzle and out we went. I read somewhere that removing a bully from the flock for a while and then putting them back in, the flock will have to reestablish their pecking order. And hopefully the bully will be at the bottom. So I figure, what have I got to lose? After a week, I’ll put him back in. I’m hoping that will be enough time for him to lose his place and for the Barred Rock to recover. Of not, I will try it longer. If that doesn’t work, the frizzle will need robe rehomed.
He was actually very agitated in this photo and I really thought he was going to injure himself trying to get out. He has calmed down.
*One week later....he’s back in the little coop after being in the big coop for a night. I’m disappointed. He’ll stay there until he can find a new home. If it’s two or three weeks and he still hasn’t found a home, I’ll try to reintegrate him again. Maybe I just didn’t give him enough time. **He had to be rehomed.
Jan. 20/19: New roosters, same problem. My 7 month old Marans cockerel has put the run to my old Barred Rock. Now he's scared to eat and spends most of his time outside, or wherever the Marans is not. I know he hasn't eaten today. I'll try this again. Heading to move the cockerel out to the little coop now.